Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Tips for People Moving to Lesotho

Hello Dear Reader,

Soon after closing out my Peace Corps service, I landed my current job which has me based in Maseru, Lesotho. I began the feverish search for any and everything about life in Maseru and Lesotho in general. Although Lesotho was the last place I visited prior to being put on "travel lockdown" (the last 3 months of PC service, you're required to stay at your site until you leave), I could safely say that I knew and remembered little to nothing about the "Mountain Kingdom", other than Malealea Lodge offers awesome views of some of Lesotho's lowland mountains, and all on the back of 'surefooted" trail horses. I also remember driving down Kingsway Road, through the center of town with two of my fellow PCV friends and thinking..."So where is it? Where's the town?" Of course, coming from the BIG CITY of Rustenburg, South Africa, Maseru looked like a one-horse town! Nearly four years later, my understanding and appreciation for Maseru and Lesotho as a whole have grown tremendously.

I'm excited to say that, within the next week or two, my beautiful Ethiopian will soon be relocating to Lesotho. With that exciting event just around the corner, I've given thought to how I can best orient him and other people looking to relocate. Hmm...what were the things I wanted to know about living as an expat in this beautiful country?

In my tiny attempt to giving my Ethiopian and you a "heads up", here is the unofficial guide to all things 'Lesotho expat':

Entertainment (The most important information to know when going to any new city, right?)

Times Cafe: Located in the center of town, on Kingsway Rd, Times Cafe (formally Good Times Cafe) is THE consistent late-night 'upscale' bar/club in town. A nice selection of DJ's rotate every night and play everything from hiphop to house music. The food selection is fair...think average bar food. In my opinion, the best night to go is "Phuza Thursdays"! Thursdays, as we know, is the day before the official start of the weekend. Phuza Thursdays helps you get the party started. If you're into football, Good Times has large screens located throughout, broadcasting all of the big matches. You're sure to find a crowd when you get there!

Lithaleng aka "The Pit": Located in the industrial area of town of Moshoeshoe Rd (pronounced Mo-shh-way-shh-way...an important word to know, by the way), "The Pit" is the King's former horse stables turned favorite hangout spot of many of the people I know. Going to "The Pit", you'll find all of the young crowd who wants to chill, have a few drinks, and listen to good music. In my opinion, the Pit is best during summertime, as most of the seating space is outside. Come wintertime, go to Good Times or stay at home and try not to freeze your nose off!

Pioneer Mall aka "The new mall": I really don't remember what life was like in Maseru prior to opening of "The new mall". Prior to 'the new mall', we all went to Shoprite for our groceries, which is also where you ran into EVERYONE. It was the central meeting point. The 'new mall" has Ster-Kinekor movie theatre, Pick 'n Pay grocery store (nicer than the Shoprite...you can find blueberries, and fancy cooking oils), Ocean Basket (think Red Lobster), Spur (think Steak n' Ale), Steers (think McDonalds-esk), KFC (yep, Kentucky Fried Chicken), Debonaire (a take away pizza joint), LCS (where you can pay for your DSTV (i.e. cable tv). think a very small time Kmart), an electronics store, a dry cleaners (although the best dry cleaning service is Emmanuel's, next to the Shoprite), and Renaissance Cafe (slow service, but nice people and decent food). There are a few clothing stores and random little shops as well (you'll see when you get here).

Malealea Lodge: Mountain lodge. Pony trekking. Bushman paintings. Hiking. Short drive from Maseru.

Semonkong Lodge: Mountain lodge. Pony trekking. Longest single commercial abseil drop in Africa. BEAUTIFUL

Afriski: Thought you couldn't ski in Africa? Think again!

...to keep it short, if you like to do outdoors stuff, Lesotho is the place to be! You want fishing? We've got it! You want to support a national football team? Yep, we've got that too! You want to boat, hike, learn about Lesotho history, want a running club, need a world class gym with Spinning/Swimming/Private trainers/Squash courts/basketball courts/tennis courts/jazzercise, mountain biking club, mountain dirt bike competition known throughout Africa? We've got it all!

Restaurants

Pizza/Italian: Mimmo's, Debonairs Pizza, and Scooters Pizza. Mimmo's is a nice meet-up spot for lunch and after work drinks. The service is pretty slow, but the staff is very friendly. Plus, the balcony is a great spot for hanging out with friends (in the summer time). Debonairs has a stand-alone location and one at "The new mall". Scooters Pizza is located in the" Industrial Area", and the great thing about this little pizza joint is that they deliver for a nominal fee to locations in the Maseru central business district area. An added plus is that, if you have friends/family members who want Nando's, Scooters will deliver that too. The trick to getting Scooters to deliver Nando's (since they're owned by the same family) is that you first place your order at Nando's and you'll get an order number. While placing your order for Scooters, give them your Nando's number and you'll get your food in a jiffy! Last, but not least, if you're up for a nice drive out to a town called Taya-Tayaneng (TY for short), you can always go to the Blue Mountain Inn for (in my opinion) the best pizza in Lesotho. My friends give me a hard time about this, but all of the Peace Corps Volunteers in country will likely agree! Also, TY is the "crafts capital" of Lesotho. You can choose from a selection of handmade weavings or design your own with any one of the local weaver collectives.

Chinese Food: Yup, Lesotho has a sizable Chinese community, along with an equally impressive selection of Chinese food. Peace Restaurant is the expat favorite. Any day of the week, you can organize a private room with karaoke. Behind the Victoria Hotel, you'll find a hidden little restaurant with decent selections. Within the past year, another restaurant has opened up next to Lancer's Inn Hotel. The buffet provides a reasonable and quick lunchtime option. Ying Tao is located in the Lesotho Sun Hotel. This is my favorite Chinese spot because of the teppanyaki tables...think Benihana. The "angry duck" option and selection of Thai soups are really good. This is an "upscale" restaurant, so be prepared to bring your Maluti!

Seafood: Ocean Basket- they also have freshly made sushi.

Steak: If you want a takeaway plate of pap, spinach, and steak off the grill, there are gazillions of ladies selling takeaway plates out of the boot of her car on just about any corner. Don't turn your nose up at this option because you just might land on an hidden gem! For the more conservative palate, you can also go to the "new mall" for Spur. Watch out for Wednesday nights..."Mexican night". Sit back and watch the wait staff dance around the restaurants in their sombreros and ponchos. Interesting.

Grocery Stores: Pick n'Pay is in the "new mall" and has more fancy options than the Shoprite. By fancy, I mean a wide selection of fruits such as blueberries (my personal favorite), pineapples, gooseberries, and blackberries. Around Thanksgiving, the US Embassy usually sources turkey (a rare treat). Pick n'Pay, at least this year, had extra stock and you know your girl has one big frozen bird in her freezer, just waiting for the right night for a dinner party! Shoprite, while not as fancy is the tried and true grocery store. Unlike the Pick n'Pay, you're always able to find a nice selection of boneless skinless chicken. Pick n'Pay, on the other hand, has nice lean mince meat (aka ground beef).

Weekend Brunch: The one, the only Living Life Cafe, located in Ladybrand, South Africa. If you want to step into Martha Stewart's own personal backyard patio for a shabby chic brunch and run into just about every expat there is in a 30 km radius, this is the place you must go. Berry juice...YUM! Homemade pies, tarts and other tasty treats...Oh...Wow! Many items on the menu are grown right there on the Living Life Cafe property. The wait staff treats you like family, the kids can play on the little shabby chic playground, and you can even bring your little dog along to enjoy the good food and sun! Living Life is open every day except Sunday and Monday. The kitchen closes by 3pm. On top of all of the delicious food, you can also purchase homemade, shabby chic plush toys, clothes, and bath salts/jewelry/stuff. Trust me, crossing over the boarder into South Africa for Living Life is well worth dedicating passport pages. My body thanks me for Living Life. Your body will thank you too.

Coffee: Right on the corner of Pioneer and Kingsway, in the center of town, you'll find this cute little outdoor cafe. Great for light sandwiches, coffee, and mixed company. The cafe is run by a family of Eritreans. After 5pm, you'll see the nightly migration of Eritrean and Ethiopian men to Ouh La La Cafe for their regular coffee meet-ups. My Ethiopian participated in this nightly ritual during his trip to Lesotho last April.

Sundowners: This hotel is located at the top of a hill with a patio overlooking Maseru town and part of South Africa. For sun downers, this is THE one and only place to go! On Thursday nights, stick around for live jazz.

Fried Chicken: Yep, we have KFC. Eww. Hungry Lion. Eww. Not to brag or anything, but I am from the South and know how to whip up a Southern meal if you know what's good for you.

Burgers: Steers...meh. If you want a "taste of home", you can always drive to Bloemfontein, South Africa for the weekend (or just a day trip) for McDonald's. Personally, I'm a die hard Wendy's girl. McDonalds Happy Meals have, however, gotten me over the case of the "I want to go home" blues during my time in Peace Corps. Also, if you were born prior to 1985, you'll remember that, before McDonald's went on a "semi-health kick", they had (gasp now) fried apple pies. My favorite!!! Luckily, South Africa still appreciates the original fried apple pies, and McDonald's has happily obliged. Side note: My parents are friends with the CEO of McDonald's and his wife. I asked my mother to convey a special "Thank you" for having the sense not to take this off the menu everywhere. Yes, I did just say that. Yes, I am a Public Health Professional. Yes, I do eat according to the new food pyramid. Yes, I run regularly (although admittedly in a slump at the moment) and participate in races all over Southern Africa . Yes, I do love a McDonald's fried apple pie every once in a while. Sue me.

Other options: Take a day trip (or weekend trip) to Bloemfontein, South Africa and see how your South African neighbors live...with more activities and food options. The new Cinnabon is the wave of the future. Since I gain weight just thinking about a fresh, hot Cinnabon, I don't usually go this route, but hey, a girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do.

Accommodation

Hotels/B&Bs: You have plenty o' options for hotels and B&Bs: Lancer's Inn Hotel (the expat favorite because it's right in the center of town within walking distance to everything), Maseru and Lesotho Sun Hotels (the Lesotho Sun is the more pricey option), Foothills B&B, and so many more. Take your pick!

Housing: It's a pain. Every expat and development organization wants to be in the central business district. As such, suitable housing is in short supply and high demand. With that combination, what do you get? High rent! The best way to find housing is by word of mouth, hiring a broker, and postings in the expat-run Frontier News, formally the Lesotho News (If you want to start looking for things prior to arriving, send an email to lesothonews@gmail.com). Neighborhoods to consider: Maseru West, Lower Thetsane, White City, Race Course Area, Friebel, Hillsview, Leseli Flats, and the Arrival Centre. The average cost of rent is about M6000/$750 per month. Good luck!

The more practical, adult stuff you need to know

Cable/Utilities: WASA to set up your water account. LEC to set up your electricity account. DSTV to set up your tv account. Econnet for your home telephone and WiFi internet at home. Vocacom for your cellphone and wireless internet modem (pay as you go or account). Once you get these things set up, you'll get a little key to refill your pay-as-you-go water meter, which you'll be able to take to the Engen Garage (petrol/gas station in town)/Shoperite/WASA HQ/Pick n'Pay for a refill. Same thing for the electricity, although your house will have a meter number that you can store in your cellphone and stop by the Engen Garage anytime you like to refill (thank heavens for the 24 hour garage!!!!).

Money: Withdraw large-ish amounts of cash from the ATM instead of having to get those darn bank charges. Most ATMS in-country will spit out cash in the local currency (Maluti). Maluti can be used in Ladybrand, South Africa, but that's it. Don't try to take it along on your weekend trip to Jozi. They'll look at you like you're crazy. The Standard Bank ATM in "the new mall" and at the border will allow you to withdraw South African Rands, which, ironically, can be used in Lesotho. FYI, having a local bank account to keep small amounts of money may be useful.

Safety: Despite what you may have heard about Lesotho's Mother Ship (aka South Africa), Lesotho is a jewel when it comes to the hospitality of the people, and safety. Of course, every city should be approached with your regular amount of caution, and Lesotho is, by no means and angel, but you can feel safe walking in groups at night without worry if your purse will get snatched. The majority of people are super friendly, warm and welcoming. If you have a question, stop someone and ask. In Lesotho, you get the best of both worlds: the peacefulness of a small town with lots of outdoor activities and access to the beautiful beast that is South Africa. (I'm proudly South African, if you didn't know!).

Dry Cleaning: Emmanuel's (across from Lancer's Inn Hotel) is THHHHHHHHE best place to get your clothes dry cleaned. I love walking into this shop, where staff working in the back come to the front to greet me. They are super fast, friendly, and when your clothes are done, you get an SMS. Beat that, dry cleaner on the bottom floor of "the new mall"!

Spa Services: Uhhh, yes, this is a practical, adult activity. Make reservations at the Lesotho Sun or Cranberry Cottage in Ladybrand. A facial, massage, pedi and mani go nicely with brunch at Living Life Cafe.

Veterinary Care: There is a Vet in Ladybrand that many expats use. They are SUPER affordable (way more affordable, and just as good as any Vet care you'll receive in the States). Also, there's an equally good (although not as fancy) Vet in Maseru across from Lehakoe Gym. For a while, I trekked across the border to Ladybrand with my big, stinky, snorting dog so that he could get his routine check-ups. One day, after giving said stinky, fat-fat dog a presumptive diagnosis of tick bite fever, I rushed him over to the local Vet. Badda bing! Badda boom! Big dog was cured. Moving forward, my big boy is Lesotho born (actually South Africa), bred, and bandaged locally!

Well Ethiopian man and newcomers alike, that's all I've got for you at the moment. If you have any requests for information, let me know! Welcome to Lesotho!

Until next time,

Dani









2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Thanks a ton for this note! I've just moved to Maseru 3 weeks ago and your tips are so helpful.

Cameron Robertson said...

Thanks Dani for the really comprehensive tips on Lesotho. I have always regarded relocating as one major phase that not everybody is willing and able to achieve. Even if my job requires me to relocate to a completely strange land, I might not be ready to adhere to it. I will definitely re-consider more than just a few times. This is due to the massive amount of hassle involving packing, movers, rental of storage units and all other miscellaneous costs involved. Thanks for sharing your experience with us.