Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Tips for People Moving to Lesotho

Hello Dear Reader,

Soon after closing out my Peace Corps service, I landed my current job which has me based in Maseru, Lesotho. I began the feverish search for any and everything about life in Maseru and Lesotho in general. Although Lesotho was the last place I visited prior to being put on "travel lockdown" (the last 3 months of PC service, you're required to stay at your site until you leave), I could safely say that I knew and remembered little to nothing about the "Mountain Kingdom", other than Malealea Lodge offers awesome views of some of Lesotho's lowland mountains, and all on the back of 'surefooted" trail horses. I also remember driving down Kingsway Road, through the center of town with two of my fellow PCV friends and thinking..."So where is it? Where's the town?" Of course, coming from the BIG CITY of Rustenburg, South Africa, Maseru looked like a one-horse town! Nearly four years later, my understanding and appreciation for Maseru and Lesotho as a whole have grown tremendously.

I'm excited to say that, within the next week or two, my beautiful Ethiopian will soon be relocating to Lesotho. With that exciting event just around the corner, I've given thought to how I can best orient him and other people looking to relocate. Hmm...what were the things I wanted to know about living as an expat in this beautiful country?

In my tiny attempt to giving my Ethiopian and you a "heads up", here is the unofficial guide to all things 'Lesotho expat':

Entertainment (The most important information to know when going to any new city, right?)

Times Cafe: Located in the center of town, on Kingsway Rd, Times Cafe (formally Good Times Cafe) is THE consistent late-night 'upscale' bar/club in town. A nice selection of DJ's rotate every night and play everything from hiphop to house music. The food selection is fair...think average bar food. In my opinion, the best night to go is "Phuza Thursdays"! Thursdays, as we know, is the day before the official start of the weekend. Phuza Thursdays helps you get the party started. If you're into football, Good Times has large screens located throughout, broadcasting all of the big matches. You're sure to find a crowd when you get there!

Lithaleng aka "The Pit": Located in the industrial area of town of Moshoeshoe Rd (pronounced Mo-shh-way-shh-way...an important word to know, by the way), "The Pit" is the King's former horse stables turned favorite hangout spot of many of the people I know. Going to "The Pit", you'll find all of the young crowd who wants to chill, have a few drinks, and listen to good music. In my opinion, the Pit is best during summertime, as most of the seating space is outside. Come wintertime, go to Good Times or stay at home and try not to freeze your nose off!

Pioneer Mall aka "The new mall": I really don't remember what life was like in Maseru prior to opening of "The new mall". Prior to 'the new mall', we all went to Shoprite for our groceries, which is also where you ran into EVERYONE. It was the central meeting point. The 'new mall" has Ster-Kinekor movie theatre, Pick 'n Pay grocery store (nicer than the Shoprite...you can find blueberries, and fancy cooking oils), Ocean Basket (think Red Lobster), Spur (think Steak n' Ale), Steers (think McDonalds-esk), KFC (yep, Kentucky Fried Chicken), Debonaire (a take away pizza joint), LCS (where you can pay for your DSTV (i.e. cable tv). think a very small time Kmart), an electronics store, a dry cleaners (although the best dry cleaning service is Emmanuel's, next to the Shoprite), and Renaissance Cafe (slow service, but nice people and decent food). There are a few clothing stores and random little shops as well (you'll see when you get here).

Malealea Lodge: Mountain lodge. Pony trekking. Bushman paintings. Hiking. Short drive from Maseru.

Semonkong Lodge: Mountain lodge. Pony trekking. Longest single commercial abseil drop in Africa. BEAUTIFUL

Afriski: Thought you couldn't ski in Africa? Think again!

...to keep it short, if you like to do outdoors stuff, Lesotho is the place to be! You want fishing? We've got it! You want to support a national football team? Yep, we've got that too! You want to boat, hike, learn about Lesotho history, want a running club, need a world class gym with Spinning/Swimming/Private trainers/Squash courts/basketball courts/tennis courts/jazzercise, mountain biking club, mountain dirt bike competition known throughout Africa? We've got it all!

Restaurants

Pizza/Italian: Mimmo's, Debonairs Pizza, and Scooters Pizza. Mimmo's is a nice meet-up spot for lunch and after work drinks. The service is pretty slow, but the staff is very friendly. Plus, the balcony is a great spot for hanging out with friends (in the summer time). Debonairs has a stand-alone location and one at "The new mall". Scooters Pizza is located in the" Industrial Area", and the great thing about this little pizza joint is that they deliver for a nominal fee to locations in the Maseru central business district area. An added plus is that, if you have friends/family members who want Nando's, Scooters will deliver that too. The trick to getting Scooters to deliver Nando's (since they're owned by the same family) is that you first place your order at Nando's and you'll get an order number. While placing your order for Scooters, give them your Nando's number and you'll get your food in a jiffy! Last, but not least, if you're up for a nice drive out to a town called Taya-Tayaneng (TY for short), you can always go to the Blue Mountain Inn for (in my opinion) the best pizza in Lesotho. My friends give me a hard time about this, but all of the Peace Corps Volunteers in country will likely agree! Also, TY is the "crafts capital" of Lesotho. You can choose from a selection of handmade weavings or design your own with any one of the local weaver collectives.

Chinese Food: Yup, Lesotho has a sizable Chinese community, along with an equally impressive selection of Chinese food. Peace Restaurant is the expat favorite. Any day of the week, you can organize a private room with karaoke. Behind the Victoria Hotel, you'll find a hidden little restaurant with decent selections. Within the past year, another restaurant has opened up next to Lancer's Inn Hotel. The buffet provides a reasonable and quick lunchtime option. Ying Tao is located in the Lesotho Sun Hotel. This is my favorite Chinese spot because of the teppanyaki tables...think Benihana. The "angry duck" option and selection of Thai soups are really good. This is an "upscale" restaurant, so be prepared to bring your Maluti!

Seafood: Ocean Basket- they also have freshly made sushi.

Steak: If you want a takeaway plate of pap, spinach, and steak off the grill, there are gazillions of ladies selling takeaway plates out of the boot of her car on just about any corner. Don't turn your nose up at this option because you just might land on an hidden gem! For the more conservative palate, you can also go to the "new mall" for Spur. Watch out for Wednesday nights..."Mexican night". Sit back and watch the wait staff dance around the restaurants in their sombreros and ponchos. Interesting.

Grocery Stores: Pick n'Pay is in the "new mall" and has more fancy options than the Shoprite. By fancy, I mean a wide selection of fruits such as blueberries (my personal favorite), pineapples, gooseberries, and blackberries. Around Thanksgiving, the US Embassy usually sources turkey (a rare treat). Pick n'Pay, at least this year, had extra stock and you know your girl has one big frozen bird in her freezer, just waiting for the right night for a dinner party! Shoprite, while not as fancy is the tried and true grocery store. Unlike the Pick n'Pay, you're always able to find a nice selection of boneless skinless chicken. Pick n'Pay, on the other hand, has nice lean mince meat (aka ground beef).

Weekend Brunch: The one, the only Living Life Cafe, located in Ladybrand, South Africa. If you want to step into Martha Stewart's own personal backyard patio for a shabby chic brunch and run into just about every expat there is in a 30 km radius, this is the place you must go. Berry juice...YUM! Homemade pies, tarts and other tasty treats...Oh...Wow! Many items on the menu are grown right there on the Living Life Cafe property. The wait staff treats you like family, the kids can play on the little shabby chic playground, and you can even bring your little dog along to enjoy the good food and sun! Living Life is open every day except Sunday and Monday. The kitchen closes by 3pm. On top of all of the delicious food, you can also purchase homemade, shabby chic plush toys, clothes, and bath salts/jewelry/stuff. Trust me, crossing over the boarder into South Africa for Living Life is well worth dedicating passport pages. My body thanks me for Living Life. Your body will thank you too.

Coffee: Right on the corner of Pioneer and Kingsway, in the center of town, you'll find this cute little outdoor cafe. Great for light sandwiches, coffee, and mixed company. The cafe is run by a family of Eritreans. After 5pm, you'll see the nightly migration of Eritrean and Ethiopian men to Ouh La La Cafe for their regular coffee meet-ups. My Ethiopian participated in this nightly ritual during his trip to Lesotho last April.

Sundowners: This hotel is located at the top of a hill with a patio overlooking Maseru town and part of South Africa. For sun downers, this is THE one and only place to go! On Thursday nights, stick around for live jazz.

Fried Chicken: Yep, we have KFC. Eww. Hungry Lion. Eww. Not to brag or anything, but I am from the South and know how to whip up a Southern meal if you know what's good for you.

Burgers: Steers...meh. If you want a "taste of home", you can always drive to Bloemfontein, South Africa for the weekend (or just a day trip) for McDonald's. Personally, I'm a die hard Wendy's girl. McDonalds Happy Meals have, however, gotten me over the case of the "I want to go home" blues during my time in Peace Corps. Also, if you were born prior to 1985, you'll remember that, before McDonald's went on a "semi-health kick", they had (gasp now) fried apple pies. My favorite!!! Luckily, South Africa still appreciates the original fried apple pies, and McDonald's has happily obliged. Side note: My parents are friends with the CEO of McDonald's and his wife. I asked my mother to convey a special "Thank you" for having the sense not to take this off the menu everywhere. Yes, I did just say that. Yes, I am a Public Health Professional. Yes, I do eat according to the new food pyramid. Yes, I run regularly (although admittedly in a slump at the moment) and participate in races all over Southern Africa . Yes, I do love a McDonald's fried apple pie every once in a while. Sue me.

Other options: Take a day trip (or weekend trip) to Bloemfontein, South Africa and see how your South African neighbors live...with more activities and food options. The new Cinnabon is the wave of the future. Since I gain weight just thinking about a fresh, hot Cinnabon, I don't usually go this route, but hey, a girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do.

Accommodation

Hotels/B&Bs: You have plenty o' options for hotels and B&Bs: Lancer's Inn Hotel (the expat favorite because it's right in the center of town within walking distance to everything), Maseru and Lesotho Sun Hotels (the Lesotho Sun is the more pricey option), Foothills B&B, and so many more. Take your pick!

Housing: It's a pain. Every expat and development organization wants to be in the central business district. As such, suitable housing is in short supply and high demand. With that combination, what do you get? High rent! The best way to find housing is by word of mouth, hiring a broker, and postings in the expat-run Frontier News, formally the Lesotho News (If you want to start looking for things prior to arriving, send an email to lesothonews@gmail.com). Neighborhoods to consider: Maseru West, Lower Thetsane, White City, Race Course Area, Friebel, Hillsview, Leseli Flats, and the Arrival Centre. The average cost of rent is about M6000/$750 per month. Good luck!

The more practical, adult stuff you need to know

Cable/Utilities: WASA to set up your water account. LEC to set up your electricity account. DSTV to set up your tv account. Econnet for your home telephone and WiFi internet at home. Vocacom for your cellphone and wireless internet modem (pay as you go or account). Once you get these things set up, you'll get a little key to refill your pay-as-you-go water meter, which you'll be able to take to the Engen Garage (petrol/gas station in town)/Shoperite/WASA HQ/Pick n'Pay for a refill. Same thing for the electricity, although your house will have a meter number that you can store in your cellphone and stop by the Engen Garage anytime you like to refill (thank heavens for the 24 hour garage!!!!).

Money: Withdraw large-ish amounts of cash from the ATM instead of having to get those darn bank charges. Most ATMS in-country will spit out cash in the local currency (Maluti). Maluti can be used in Ladybrand, South Africa, but that's it. Don't try to take it along on your weekend trip to Jozi. They'll look at you like you're crazy. The Standard Bank ATM in "the new mall" and at the border will allow you to withdraw South African Rands, which, ironically, can be used in Lesotho. FYI, having a local bank account to keep small amounts of money may be useful.

Safety: Despite what you may have heard about Lesotho's Mother Ship (aka South Africa), Lesotho is a jewel when it comes to the hospitality of the people, and safety. Of course, every city should be approached with your regular amount of caution, and Lesotho is, by no means and angel, but you can feel safe walking in groups at night without worry if your purse will get snatched. The majority of people are super friendly, warm and welcoming. If you have a question, stop someone and ask. In Lesotho, you get the best of both worlds: the peacefulness of a small town with lots of outdoor activities and access to the beautiful beast that is South Africa. (I'm proudly South African, if you didn't know!).

Dry Cleaning: Emmanuel's (across from Lancer's Inn Hotel) is THHHHHHHHE best place to get your clothes dry cleaned. I love walking into this shop, where staff working in the back come to the front to greet me. They are super fast, friendly, and when your clothes are done, you get an SMS. Beat that, dry cleaner on the bottom floor of "the new mall"!

Spa Services: Uhhh, yes, this is a practical, adult activity. Make reservations at the Lesotho Sun or Cranberry Cottage in Ladybrand. A facial, massage, pedi and mani go nicely with brunch at Living Life Cafe.

Veterinary Care: There is a Vet in Ladybrand that many expats use. They are SUPER affordable (way more affordable, and just as good as any Vet care you'll receive in the States). Also, there's an equally good (although not as fancy) Vet in Maseru across from Lehakoe Gym. For a while, I trekked across the border to Ladybrand with my big, stinky, snorting dog so that he could get his routine check-ups. One day, after giving said stinky, fat-fat dog a presumptive diagnosis of tick bite fever, I rushed him over to the local Vet. Badda bing! Badda boom! Big dog was cured. Moving forward, my big boy is Lesotho born (actually South Africa), bred, and bandaged locally!

Well Ethiopian man and newcomers alike, that's all I've got for you at the moment. If you have any requests for information, let me know! Welcome to Lesotho!

Until next time,

Dani









Tuesday, February 14, 2012

12 Reasons to Date a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer

It’s Valentine’s Day! A day when we celebrate friendship, love, and romance. Through the years here at the National Peace Corps Association, we’ve heard countless stories of Peace Corps romance. The couples that met at the airport on the way to training. The couples that met while serving. The Peace Corps Volunteers that fell in love with a host country national. And the Returned Peace Corps Volunteers that connected back here in the States, discovering that the shared bond of Peace Corps service was the spark that led to a relationship.

Peace Corps is a life-changing experience that develops a unique set of skills and attributes. So it goes without saying: Returned Peace Corps Volunteers make GREAT dates. And just to prove it, we’ve started a list. 12 reasons to date a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer:

Source


  1. We can woo you in multiple languages. Who else is going to whisper sweet nothings to you in everything from Albanian to Hausa to Quechua to Xhosa? That’s right. Only a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer.
  2. We’re pretty good dancers. Yeah, we don’t like to brag, but after 27 months in Latin America or Africa we know how to move it. 
  3. We’ll eat anything. Seriously. No matter how bad your cooking, Returned Peace Corps Volunteers have had worse and will eat it with nary a blink. Sheep’s eyeball? Water buffalo gall bladder? Grasshoppers? Bush rat? Bring it. 
  4. We know all about safe sex, thanks to our very thorough Peace Corps health training. In fact, there’s a chance that we’ve stood unblushingly in front of hundreds of villagers and demonstrated good condom technique with a large wooden phallus. 
  5. We’ll kill spiders for you. Well, actually, we’ll nonchalantly scoop them up and put them out of sight. Same goes for mice, geckos, frogs, snakes. Critters don’t faze Returned Volunteers. 
  6. We have great date ideas: wandering a street market, checking out a foreign film, taking in a world music concert, volunteering…. Romantic getaway? Our passport is updated and our suitcase is packed. With us, life is always an adventure. 
  7. We like you for “you”… not your paycheck. Especially if we are freshly back from service, a local joint with “character” will win out over a pretentious eatery. Living in a group house? Does it have running hot water? What luxury! 
  8. You won’t get lost when you’re with a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer. Navigating local markets on four continents, we’ve honed an uncanny sense of direction. Or else we’ll ask for directions. We’re not afraid to talk to “strangers.” 
  9. Waiting for a late train or bus? Don’t worry, we’ve been there, done that. We can share lots of funny stories about “the bus ride from hell” that will make the time go quickly and put it all into perspective. 
  10. Our low-maintenance fashion style. Returned Peace Corps Volunteer guys are secure in their manhood and don’t mind rocking a sarong. Women often prefer flip flops to high heels. We don’t spend hours in front of a mirror getting ready to go out. 
  11. Marry us, and you won’t just get one family — you’ll get two! When we refer to our “brother” or “mom,” you’ll want to be certain we’re talking about our American one or our Peace Corps one. You might even get two wedding ceremonies, one in the U.S. and one back in our Peace Corps country. 
  12. And last but not least, we aren’t afraid to get dirty. 

Friday, February 10, 2012

Peace Corps: Read All About It

Hello Dear Reader,

Let me tell you a few things about me: I love the Peace Corps. I love to read. I think that Wikipedia is the future (no, I won't so inclined to reference Wikipedia in a scientific journal artical...but still). For one reason or another, I decided to see what Wikipedia had to say about Peace Corps. In addition to learning about past PC Directors, I found a brief bibliography of books about or referencing Peace Corps. The list was, by no means, exhaustive because I can personally reference at least three books I read in preparation for my own PC service that didn't make the Wiki-list.

If you're a Peace Corps fan like I am, want to read about other volunteers' perspectives, or are in need of a new eddition to your Kindle (I'm an iPad girl myself), check out the list below.

1) Alan Weiss's 1968 account of Peace Corps training, High Risk, High Gain: A Freewheeling Account of Peace Corps Training, has been called "perhaps the most obscure, least known, and most unread" of all the great books written about the Peace Corps experience.[66] Trainees in those days were classified by potential risk and by potential gain and Weiss discovered in his training days that he had been classified as High Risk/High Gain, a potential "Supervolunteer" or a potential "crash and burn." Weiss's book is funny, outrageous and sad but also valuable because it captures the “craziness” of those early years at the Peace Corps.[66]


2) Published in 1969, Moritz Thomsen's Living Poor: A Peace Corps Chronicle (ISBN 978-0295969282) recounts the author's service in Ecuador.[67] RPCV Paul Theroux said that Living Poor was the best book he ever read on the Peace Corps experience[68] and Tom Miller wrote that Thomsen was "one of the great American expatriate writers of the 20th century."[67] "And as an expat, he was free to judge us all, an undertaking he finessed with acute observations, self-deprecation, and a flavorful frame of reference that ranged from a Tchaikovsky symphony to a Sealy Posturpedic mattress."[67]


3) For a history of the Peace Corps' early days, Coates Redmond's Come as You Are (1986, ISBN 978-0151194353) recounts its birth and how it was thrown together in a matter of weeks. "The book works as a charming, first-person history of the people who made the corps what it was in its formative years," says Charles DeBenedetti at the University of Toledo.[69] "This book is highly readable and essential to understand the evolution of the unique Peace Corps spirit and style that continues to characterize the agency almost 45 years later," wrote Maureen Carroll, an early Peace Corps volunteer.[70]


4) George Packer's (Togo 1982–83) The Village of Waiting (1988, ISBN 978-0374527808) is "one of the most wrenchingly honest books ever written by a white person about Africa, a bracing antidote to romantic authenticity myths and exotic horror stories alike," wrote Matt Steinglass.[71] Isak Dinesen, Packer notes, wrote of waking in the Kenyan highlands and thinking, "Here I am, where I ought to be." Packer himself woke up sweating, hungry, "mildly at ease, or mildly anxious. But never where I ought to be."[71]


5) Tom Bissell served for a few months in Uzbekistan in 1996 before he "early terminated". However, Bissell felt he had really failed the people he joined to help, so he returned in 2001 to write Chasing the Sea (2004, ISBN 978-0-375-72754-2) about the Aral Sea. However, "the secret, personal point of the journey was revisiting this failure of mine, to try to make something up to the country and people I’d abandoned," says Bissell. "My ambitions were actually pretty modest. I wanted to write a book that everyone who traveled to Central Asia would want to read, and I wanted to write a book that everyone who joins the Peace Corps has pressed upon them," Bissell said.[72]


6) Kris Holloway's Monique and the Mango Rains: Two Years With a Midwife in Mali (2006, ISBN 978-1577664352) warmly recounts the author's experience as a Peace Corps volunteer in Mali from 1989 to 1990, working as an assistant to a midwife, Monique Dembele. Holloway's memoir provides unique focus on issues of women's health and women's social and economic vulnerability. Reviewing the book for African Studies Review, Yale's Kari A. Hartwig noted that the story, "is told with an honest self-awareness of the author's own naiveté, her hope for a better future for her friend Monique and Monique's family, and the uncertain path of how to bridge difference, culture, opportunities, and privilege"[73]


7) Lawrence F. Lihosit's Peace Corps Chronology; 1961–2010 (2010, 978-1450270694, ISBN 978-1450270694) nominated for the 2010 Peace Corps Writers' Publisher's Special Award,[74] offers a compact history of the Peace Corps as well as informative comparisons. John P. Coyne, editor of Peace Corps Worldwide, has called it "a very impressive book" while fellow Peace Corps historian P. David Searles called it "excellent."


8) Lawrence F. Lihosit's South of the Frontera; A Peace Corps Memoir (2010, ISBN 978-1450218580) is a fast-paced and humorous travel adventure book describing Mexico and Central America between 1975 and 1977 when he went native before even joining the Peace Corps. "One learns a great deal about our Latino neighbors and about ourselves when we respond to them." ,[75] wrote P. David Searles, former Peace Corps staffer and author of a Peace Corps history. Craig Carrozzi, author of The Road to El Dorado (2000, ISBN 9780962028618), called this book "a classic."


9) Lawrence F. Lihosit's Years On and Other Travel Essays (2011, ISBN 978-1-4620-0804-9) includes twelve essays which describe how he hitchhiked along bleak Arizona highways, hacked a path though Honduran mountains in search of water, avoided caiman while riding bulls across flooded Bolivian savannah and grizzlies as he hunted caribou in bush Alaska, ran for his life after getting embroiled in Mexico City politics and more. Tony D'Souza, author of Whiteman commented, "Lihosit chronicles a Moritz Thomsen-like 'path less traveled,' a Peter Hessler-esque possession of language and culture...(the) best and rarest of ex-pats: the Yankee gone native."[76]


10) Lawrence F. Lihosit's Whispering Campaign; Stories from Mesoamerica (2009, ISBN 978-1-4401-7331-8) is like a powerful magnifying glass, focusing on telling details and offering a different hue to American portraits. Allen W. Fletcher, author of Heat, Sand & Friends commented, "As in Chinatown or Ballad of a Thin Man, they go directly to the gut. The mix is a rich one."[77]

Source

Happy Reading,

Dani