Mozambique n' more

Recently,I along with a few of my fellow Peace Corps Volunteers took an action-packed trip to Mozambique for a bit of rest and relaxation. We all met up in Pretoria for a 6 hour Translux bus ride to Maputo. Everything was going great until we go to the boarder of Mozambique when I realized that, instead of bringing along my PC passport with my 36 month visa for multiple entries, I brought along my personal passport which hadn't been used to visit or leave South Africa since 2005...silly me! Well, I waited my turn to get my passport stamped in and the boarder official looked at me and said, where's your visa, when did you get here? Basically, without my PC passport, it looked like I had remained in South Africa from 2005, the last time I had used it. I got a taste of what it felt like to be ILLEGAL! She threatened me with a HUGE fine as I was sweating bullets trying to explain to her that I was a poor volunteer working with orphans and vulnerable children in Rustenburg and that, really, I did have another passport with an official visa, and really, I did actually leave the country in 2005 as indicated by the exit stamp from O.R. Tambo Airport in Joburg, while my friends were looking at me like...well this trip is over before it began. To make a long and sweat-filled story short, I got my stamp out of South Africa (not too long after requesting for a boost in my allowance from my VERY LOVING PARENTS). On the Mozambique side of the boarder, the bus opperator, who was very nice, assisted (with a bit of sketch)us in getting our visitor's visa processed...we were on our way! After what seemed like forever and two days on the road, we landed in Maputo...new language, new currency to figure out, pushy taxi drivers, the works! All 5 of us, including buldging luggage, were stuffed into a late model Toyota Corolla and driven literally around the corner to our backpackers...The Base. As we stumbled, travel worn and weary, we were greeted at the door by an over zealous front desk attendant who seemed to know exactly who we were, because, without saying hello, he proceeded to tell us that there was not room at the inn. Apparently, the reservation policy at the Base is that you must confirm your reservation 24 hours in advance, which he said that he did, but no one ever received a call. Tired and irritated, two of us broke away from the group and searched frantically for an other place to stay that wouldn't break the PC bank. Eventually, we found a really cool spot...Fatima's...Once we were settled in (read: threw our stuff on the bunk beds), we headed out for food...we landed at a hip pizza spot, although my early Alzhiemers is making me forget the name. Four of us sat on the patio, enjoying the weather, the new language (Portugese), and pleasant atmosphere. Periodically, young guys would walk around the perimeter of the restaurant selling their arts and crafts. Tip: If you look at or entertain the vendors, they won't go away. The result of the evening is that you will be harassed for the rest of the evening. Two members of our party were officially banned from looking anyone in the eye for the rest of the trip. To end the evening, we hopped back into a taxi and, upon arrival at Fatima's, we (read: I) gave the taxi driver a tip he will never forget...an extra 350 Metacal ($15) because I gave him a 500 instead of a 50...We expected the driver to be waiting at the backpackers all day and evening trying to get us to ride with him!

Next day, we got up earlier than the roosters to catch mini bus to Tofo Beach, which was supposedly an 8 hour ride away (read: 10+ hours). While waiting for the bus, however, one of us was violently ill and we watched as one of the other lodgers arranged for an early morning romp with a comercial sex worker...something that we made note of during our entire trip...older, forigen men, usually of European decent purchasing young, black women for their time and other things.

Side Note: As a PROUD, BLACK WOMAN, traveling with a group of other PROUD, BLACK WOMEN, I (we)were confronted with the unfortunate realization that as a whole, Black women are often placed in situations where we can be bought and sold to the highest bidder for a few dollars and encouraged to forget with the addition of drugs and alcohol. Our bodies are for sale to bored and desperate Western tourists or people on the other side of town who want to take advantage of women and young girls who are clearly in a desperate mental/financial/emotional state. Unfortunately, many of us who were traveling together do not have to leave our own communities to see this situation, which is repeated for hours every night on a side street, once the sun goes down. I encourage other PROUD, BLACK WOMEN to fight for yours and other's right to no longer serve as a commodity. Get involved in a young sista's life, encourage her, support her, help her to see her bright future! If you don't, consider yourself as an addition to the problem. Instead, be a solution!

Back to the story: After many hours of riding in a mini-bus that retained a strong smell of day-old fish, head-bobbing-mouth-wide-open-drooling-sleep, stopping at every major and minor town to shop outside of your bus window for bread, fruit, socks, razors, etc., we arrived in the ruggedly, beautiful Tofo Beach! First stop: Food! The amazing part of vacationing in a sea-side town is that you can literally watch as fishermen bring in their catch to local restaurants, and for you seafood lovers, I'm talking about SQUID, SHRIMP (PRAWNS), ANY FISH YOU CAN THINK OF, EEL, CRAB, LOBSTER, you name it! The first evening at our backpackers, we ate an "all you can eat" seafood buffet! I went to sleep dreaming of fish (not a pregnancy dream for all of you down south folk), fish that I would be eating for the rest of my trip.

Ok, to cut this already long story short, we had a wonderful time sitting, reading,etc. by the ocean. Oh, the last night in Maputo, four of us went down to the local fish market. In this market, fisherman (maybe their wives is more like it) sell fresh catches of the day: Any type of fish you want, prawns, crab, lobster, mussels, etc. for CHEAP prices. On the other side of the market, you take your fresh fish to any number of restaurants that cook it for you. Even though it took a long time to get the food, we were all entertained by the festive mood and live music! This, is a MUST when in Mozambique!

In my opinion, however, the trip was much too short considering how long it takes to get there! A great trip none-the-less and much needed at that! I was getting very restless in Rustenburg and everyone, except those at my job, were getting on my nerves and I was amazed at how that short break refreshed me and helped me to see that I can stick it out for a few more months until my service is up! And just in case you're wondering, I made it back into South Africa with no problems, only thing is that I have to leave in the next 3 months (the length of time Americans can enter South Africa without a visa)to get stamped back out! But just in case I happen to go back to Mozambique, I made a few friends at the border who might be able to help me out if I ever run into any problems!



My self portrait













Man & Meat


















That little brown dot is me!























Just a small sampling of the seafood that we got for cheap!